Category: Sewing

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Conquering the WIP pile

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I’ve been a weird combination of highly motivated / can’t be bothered to sew for several years, which has resulted in a bunch of partially completed projects. Why finish a project when you can start a new one?! I’ve also accumulated a small pile of things that needed minor fitting tweaks, which are never as exciting as starting a fresh project.

But a couple weeks ago, I’d apparently had enough and dedicated a Sunday to tackling the stack. I set a goal of completing or fixing five doom pile projects and, to my utter shock, completed four. Here’s what I did…

The first garment was this Seamwork Madhu that simply needed longer lengths of elastic in the sleeves. The sleeves were squeezing my arms, so I’d stopped wearing it.

I had already unpicked and replaced the elastic but lost steam when it came to stitching up a grand total of 1 inch on the casings. While I had white thread in my machine, I also put some tacks in the neckline elastic to keep it in place.

The second project was a also a Madhu, but an Ace & Jig inspired hack! I raised the neckline, lengthened the sleeves, modified the waist hem, and planned to finish the neckline and sleeves with bias binding.

All the construction was completed but I’d pooped out at the finishing steps, including creating the bias tape. I’m pretty pleased with this hack!

Next, was this top. It’s the Seamwork Aims and while it looks flipping cute on others, I’ve learned I don’t feel great in tops with even the slightest amount of poof at the shoulders. But I wanted to finish it, even if it ultimately gets donated. It needed the hem and placket stitched, plus buttons and buttonholes. It’s a little yeehaw but I’m kinda into it?

The last thing I was able to squeeze into this weekend WIP party was taking in the center back seam on this Isola jumpsuit. My fabric kinda bagged out and was flapping in the wind making me not want to wear them. It was a subtle change but made a big difference!

The following weekend I was still riding the WIP pile high and decided to fix the fit on these Shop Pants. Despite previously making these in the same fabric (just a different dye) the fit was completely different at the back waist. I had also placed the back belt loop off center and was happy to have the opportunity to fix it. I took about an inch out of the center back and was able to hide all the backstitching under the belt loops. I’m so excited to have another pair since I wear this pair all the time!

And then this past weekend I tackled this incredibly old WIP. It’s seriously old, like multiple years old. These canvas Pomona pants needed the inseam, hems, and waistband sewn. After finishing them, I unpicked the front patch pocket because it looked weird.

Believe it or not, there are still WIPs to be finished! And I’m committing to not starting any new projects (except for simple pointelle t-shirts, I gotta have some fun) until the pile is conquered!

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A Pop of Blue

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I know, I know. Neutrals are my favorite, but sometimes a primary pop is what a project needs.

This subtle splash of color was inspired by the jacket itself. While constructing, I thought it looked like a painter’s smock sans paint. Inspiration hit and I thought maybe some colorful snaps could stand in for paint smears.

After a quick google, I found both red and blue snaps and ordered. I ended up choosing the blue to coordinate with the dark blue topstitching.

PATTERN: Seamwork Parker

FABRIC: Carhartt denim from Mill End

SIZE: 8

MODS: Shortened sleeves 2″

This jacket is very easy to throw on and I’ve been wearing a lot. It features raglan sleeves, angled pockets that go all the way to the side seams creating FOUR POCKETS, a back pleat, stand collar, a perfect straight cut, and cuffs.

I am also wearing Shop Pants and my natural dyes bandana.

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New Makes

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Seasons Cardigan | Ozetta

This project taught me an important lesson – one can’t just assume the steps and start knitting. I just didn’t read the instructions and had to redo the neckband multiple times. Once I finally realized it wasn’t just a simple K1, P1 repeat (by reading), it took off and was a pretty fun knit.

I bought the yarn and buttons over a year ago, but didn’t feel ready for the pattern until completing the pullover version. Now that I’ve knit both, I think the cardigan is actually easier – the short rows in the pullover kinda broke my brain.

The coolest part of this pattern is that the neckband is knit with the body. I used Berroco Ultra Alpaca in Barley and made a size M.

I shortened the sleeve cuffs by half. The sleeves are a little longer than I’d like after blocking but not enough to redo.

This sweater is a classic and it’s going to get a lot of wear. I’m considering making the oversized version at some point but definitely need a break from half fisherman’s rib for a bit.

Iggy Pants | Seamwork

My stomach hates tight waistbands so I fricking LOVE pants with elastic backs. Also love a weird leg shape!

A pair of pants from Big Bud Press got the idea of red topstitching stuck in my head and this pattern seemed perfect for a pop of red. Plus, I already had a red zipper in my stash.

I first made a size 8 but then realized I hadn’t taken my measurements in a while. The 8 fit but didn’t have the waistband comfort I wanted, so this denim pair is a size 10. I did need to pull the elastic a little tighter to get the fit just right.

A few ways I deviated from the instructions:

  • Serged off the dart uptake to make the hem less bulky.
  • Pressed the seams to one side and topstitched.
  • Added more topstitching overall (pockets, fly, rise, darts).
  • Attached waistband to inside of pants first, then topstitched the fold and added elastic from the outside.
  • Used one tack button instead of two regular buttons.
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I guess I’m in my gray era.

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Gray thing #1 is my just finished sweater, which took about four months to knit. The most challenging and time consuming part of this knit was the short rows, but once I got past them, it was smooth knitting. The instructions are great and clear, it was my brain that was the issue here.

PATTERN: Seasons Sweater by Ozetta

YARN: Knitting for Olive heavy merino and soft silk mohair in ‘dark moose’ from La Mercerie

SIZE: M, no mods

This project felt just outside of my current knitting skill set, but it happened and I think I’m ready for the cardigan version. And yes, it’s just as squishy as it looks.

Gray thing #2 is this flight suit. The color I chose leans a little janitorial, but when it’s splattered in clay it leans artist. The fabric does wear a little heavy and I definitely overheat if I’m moving around a lot, but the details on this pattern are jumpsuit perfection.

PATTERN: Seamwork Mercer

FABRIC: Robert Kaufman Ventana Twill in ‘Grayish’

SIZE: 8 with 3″ removed from leg and 2″ removed from sleeve.

And gray thing #3 is a sweatshirt I made entirely for this single quilt block. Okay, I already had the french terry and rib knit, but I was inspired to sew it up once I had the idea of slapping the quilt block on it. The block was made out of linen scraps and was very shifty, so I fused some knit stay tape to the turned under edges and had to use a sheet of tracing paper to stitch it onto the french terry to keep the fabric from stretching out.

PATTERN: Dale Sweatshirt by Daisy Chain Patterns

FABRIC: ‘Mushroom’ french terry and matching rib knit from ISee Fabrics

SIZE: M

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Recent Makes

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Sommar Camisole | Paradise Patterns

This is a lovely pattern. The instructions are super clear and this whole thing can be sewn using your regular sewing machine. I am going to try using my coverstitch for the bands on the next one.

Sandal Making Workshop | Rachel Sees Snail Shoes

Finally snagged a spot in one of Rachel’s sandal making workshops. I didn’t quite nail the fit on these – the vamps are just too thick and the thick leather needed more shaping than my design allowed, so they kinda slice into my big toes. They still need to be sanded, which is why I only have in progress photos.

Sophie Scarf | Petite Knit

I knit a lot of this during my Japan trip and finally finished it a couple weeks ago. This is before blocking. This color is so nice.

Melon Basket | Wildcraft Workshop taught by Textile Indie

Attended another basket making workshop to make this cute little melon basket. The wrapping technique reminded me of summer camp crafts. I’m thinking about dyeing it with indigo.

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Sewing for Knitting

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I love sewing stuff for other hobbies (example 1, example 2, example 3). So now that I’m deep into knitting, it only made sense to sew up some project bags.

I made two Field Bags in a canvas from Ruby Star Society. One is for me and the other is for my cousin / knitting fairy godmother.

I also made a small Stowe Bag to match this older large Stowe I made in 2016.

And here they are all together! I have two almost finished sweaters in these, plus yarn for my next project.

And I’ve been working on an ultimate needle / tool case to replace the hideous things that came with my Chiaogoo needles. I’m still noodling on one of the page designs, so it’s been taking longer than planned. VERY excited about it.

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Shop Pants | by Open Studio Patterns

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I made another pair of Shop Pants! The first pair was a wearable muslin that ended up being a little too big.

For this version, I made a size 2. Usually I write notes on the pattern pieces if I make adjustments, but I failed to this time. It’s clear that I shortened the leg by 1/2 to 1″ but I’m not sure. Overall, I think the 2 fits much more how I want them to, but I do wonder if I need to grade to a 1 at the waist, especially with denim.

I’m also wearing a newly made Seamwork Orlando that I hacked to have a crew neck. I used the bonus sleeves, which I also added 4″ inches to. I have another pointelle from Lyrical in a warm brown that I plan to make another long sleeve crew neck with. It’s a perfect winter layer.

Once again, I didn’t staystitch the waistlines after cutting everything out and things definitely got weird. I had to do a lot of easing to make the top of the pants fit with the waistband and there’s some puckering in the back. It’s not terrible, but I know it’s there. Next time (yes I have one more pair planned) I will stabilize before construction! I also only interfaced the inner waistband this time since my machine hated sewing the belt loops on at the end.

On my first pair, I followed the topstitching instructions exactly. I found though that I had some puckering right where I’m pointing above. So I decided to topstitch like traditional jeans and I really like how it turned out. The right bartack is kinda in a weird place, but it’s covering where I stopped and started to stitch the bottom of the fly guard down.

I like to press and sew the rise seams in opposite directions to reduce bulk.

My machine got pretty mad about the belt loops last time so instead of making them 4 layers thick, I folded the strip in 3rds and serged the exposed edge. I like that they’re a bit wider too.

I forgot to change the stitch length on the waistband so the bottom line is 2.5 and all other topstitching is 3.20. Whoops!

I added another line of stitching on the zipper tape after seeing that on a pair of RTW pants. The rivets at the pocket openings and the jean button are from Blackbird and the denim is Robert Kaufman’s bleached denim.

I’ve worn them every day this week and can’t wait to make another pair!

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Some stuff I’ve done lately.

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WildCraft had a back to school sale, so I signed up for a four week introduction to oil painting course with Rachel Warkentin. I busted out my decades old oil paint and I’m having a blast. The last session in next Monday (sad face) and I’m hoping to start up an at home practice. In the second week we painted rocks and eggs. My egg and rocks are in the lower right.

Here’s the progression of some spoons. I’m most excited to have learned some less toxic options for working with oils. Canola and walnut oils are way less stinky too!

Sadie designed this fun top (there’s a dress version too) for Tauko Magazine. I got to make it over the summer and it’s finally cool enough to wear it! This fabric is from Anuprerna.

And another WildCraft class – visible darning with Erin Eggenburg. Getting to her level of skill is going to take some practice.

Here’s my hot mess!

I learned just how well WD-40 cleans and conditions metal. I bought this vintage desk chair to make my work from home space a little more comfortable but it was GROSS.

There was a long abandoned spider nest in the back rest and it had so much rust and grime. It cleaned up so much better than I thought it would.

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Shell Tuck Orlandos

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I saw this post last month and immediately wanted to make one. Just like in the post, I used the Seamwork Orlando. I made a size 8 and shortened the length by 1/2″.

Lyrical Fabrics has a great selection of cotton pointelle, which I think might be deadstock. There are a few prints and colors I missed out on so I was quick to grab these “Lemoncello” and “Champagne” pointelles when they were released.

I followed Lyrical’s shell tuck / picot hem tutorial on their blog. I wasn’t sure if this stitch would work on the sleeves and hem but I haven’t heard any popped stitches yet!

I don’t know why but both necklines produced one skipped stitch on the same side so I had to hand-sew one “tuck” on each tee. I hope they hold up to wear… I think it might have been a combination of the foot straddling the seam and the needle not quite dropping off the edge. Skipping only happened on the necklines.

I used my coverstitch machine to hem everything and was delighted to find that the white cones worked for both colors and I didn’t have to rethread it. I sure do love having a coverstitch machine.

The cuts of fabric are unusually wide so I have a decent amount leftover. I’m thinking maybe a True Bias Zoey tank with the same scalloped edges on the bands.

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Shop Pants | Open Studio

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I haven’t made, or really worn, hard pants in quite a while, but this post caught my eye and I knew it was time to make some pants that didn’t include elastic. After I’d downloaded and printed the pattern, Open Studio reached out to offer a $100 stipend and the pattern in exchange for a review/IG post. They kindly sent their two other patterns since I’d already purchased the Shop Pant.

Based on my measurements, I decided to make a size 3. Aside from shortening the leg length 1″, I didn’t make any other pattern adjustments. Being out of hard pant practice, I knew I needed to make a wearable muslin and actually wear them to assess if I chose the best size, or if I just need some small tweaks to size 3.

After wearing them for a day, I think I need to grade to a size 2 at the waist and potentially shorten the front crotch (see crotch wrinkles in first photo). The intended fit of the waistline is high, but they fall down to my mid waist. Although they are VERY comfy to sit in, they’re just a wee bit too roomy.

Hello underwear!

I love the front pockets! They’ve got a fun angular opening and very deep, functional bags. Seriously super deep. My whole phone fits in there. I used a thrifted Indian cotton print for the pocketing and made it so the right side was facing the inside of the pants.

The fly constructions is straightforward, but I ordered a “jeans zipper” which is obnoxiously huge and kept getting stuck under my presser foot. If you want to sweat and swear a lot, order a #5 jeans zipper and you’re guaranteed a challenge.

The topstitching was interrupted by the zipper on both the fly extension and the fly front when I had to take the whole presser foot off my machine to zip it up. Quite annoying.

#5 jeans zipper (left), vintage zip (right). Look at how massive it is and this pic doesn’t even capture its girth.

I really love the barrel shape. I did an extra line of topstitching here to match the stitching on the butt pockets.

One construction step that I’ll be adding to future pants is attaching the waistband to the wrong side of the pants first, then folding it to right side to topstitch. No more having to redo the topstiching because you didn’t catch the inside folded edge of the waistband! Brilliant!

I do plan to change up the waistband construction a little since I didn’t get the crisp corners I can achieve with a different method. The right waistline must have gotten a little stretched out while I was sewing so it didn’t match with the band. I had to do some easing and got some annoying puckers because of that. Wild how it only happened to one side!

I really like this pattern and totally plan to make at least one more pair!